Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparation comprising 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactones

ABSTRACT

Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparation containing one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides besides optionally additional cosmetic and/or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliary agents, and additives.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatologicalpreparation containing one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivativesand/or their glycosides besides optionally further cosmetic and/ordermatological active ingredients, auxiliary agents, and additives.

The skin is the largest organ of humans. It fulfills a plurality offunctions (for example, regulation of heat, sensory organ for the senseof touch and sensation of heat, barrier function, protection againstdrying).

The skin can be subdivided into three histologically definable layers:

-   -   Epidermis    -   Cutis, corium, dermis    -   Subcutis

The outer layer is formed by the epidermis. As a barrier layer, it formsthe actual protective covering against the environment. With about onetenth of the total thickness, it is at the same time the thinnest layerof the skin. The epidermis is a stratified tissue, in which the outerlayer, the Stratum corneum represents the most essential portion for thebarrier function. In contact with the environment, it is subjected towear and, therefore, undergoes a constant regeneration process. In thisprocess, fine scales are continuously discharged toward the outside, andhorny cell and lipid material is reproduced from the inside.

Below the epidermis is the cutis, which is also called corium or dermis.The main function of this mesodermal connective tissue consists infeeding the epidermis. It is formed by elastic, collagenic, andreticular fibers, and comprises a large number of plasma and mast cells.

The subcutis consists of a loose connective tissue with more or lessnumerous fat cells embedded therein. It serves as heat protection,mechanical cushioning, as well as a depot for nutrients and water.

The chronological aging of the skin is caused, for example, byendogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis,aging causes, for example, the following structural damage andfunctional disorders, which may also fall under the term “senilexerosis,” namely:

a) dryness, roughness, and formation of dryness wrinkles;

b) itching; and

c) reduced refatting by sebaceous glands (for example, after washing).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can have acumulative effect, and accelerate or supplement, for example, endogenousaging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, exogenous factors cause inparticular, for example, the following structural damages and functionaldisorders in the skin, which go beyond extent and quality of the damagesin the case of chronological aging:

d) visible vascular dilations (teleangiectasis, cuperosis;

e) flaccidity and formation of wrinkles;

f) local hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, and abnormal pigmentation(for example, age spots);

g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (for example,cracking); and

h) decrease of the collagen content of the skin (for example, by reducedneosynthesis and/or increased decomposition), and/or disorders of themetabolism of glycosaminoglycane and/or elastin.

Besides skin aging processes, the external appearance of the skin aswell as its function can be disturbed and damaged by an imbalance of theskin flora, increased resorption of toxic or allergenic substances, oran attack by skin-foreign microorganisms. As a consequence, theseimpairments may lead to toxic or allergenic skin reactions.

In the case of unclean skin, which is described the transitional statebetween the healthy normal skin and the abnormally changed acne skin,the skin produces increased amounts of sebum (seborrhea). This sebumserves as an ideal culture medium for numerous microorganisms, inparticular Propionibacterium acnes and Pityrosporum species. Themicroorganisms decompose the sebum into glycerin and fatty acids,thereby stimulating the sebaceous glands to increased production, andattacking and destroying the follicle walls in the skin. This causesinflammation of the skin (pustules, nodes, cysts), which often heal onlywith scars, thereby permanently damaging the optical appearance ofhumans who suffer from unclean skin.

It is the object of cosmetic skin care to strengthen and restore thenatural function of the skin as a barrier against environmentalinfluences (for example, dirt, chemicals, microoganisms) and against theloss of endogenous substances (for example, water, natural fats,electrolytes). Thus, the use of cosmetics serves to slow down the skinaging process and to care for the natural skin flora.

In the art, a number of products have already been developed for thecare of flaccid, in particular aged skin. They contain, for example,retinoids (vitamin A acid and/or its derivatives), or vitamin A and/orits derivatives. Their effect on structural damage, however, is limitedin terms of extent. Moreover, great difficulties exist in the productdevelopment with respect to adequately stabilizing the activeingredients against oxidative decay. Beyond that, the use of vitamin Aacid containing products often causes strong erythematous skinirritations. Retinoids can therefore be used only in low concentrations.

Likewise, a plurality of products has been developed in the art for thetreatment and care of unclean skin. These products, however, involve theproblem of an inadequate balancing of effect and side effect.Conventional products have either an excessively bactericidal anddegreasing effect, whereby healthy skin flora is normally destroyed, orby which the skin is caused to dry out extremely, or the products arebarely effective to ensure successful treatment within a reasonabletime.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to eliminate or atleast lessen the deficiencies of the art, and to develop a cosmeticand/or dermatological preparation, which is both prophylactically andtherapeutically effective against all signs of skin aging and uncleanskin.

Surprisingly, the object is accomplished by a cosmetic and/ordermatological preparation that contains one or more2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides besidesoptionally further cosmetic and/or dermatological active ingredients,auxiliary agents, and additives.

The preparation of the invention is highly effective against all agingsigns of the skin. The development of wrinkles and creases, as well asage spots is clearly suppressed. Already existing wrinkles and creasesdisappear, flaccid skin becomes again tight, and assumes a fresh andyouthful appearance. Existing age spots are allowed to disappear by theuse of the preparation of the invention. Degenerated skin portions areregenerated, disturbed blood circulation is clearly lessened. Evenitching and stress sensation of the skin ease noticeably. Moreover, thepreparation of the invention is suited as an effective and yet mildagent for the prophylaxis and treatment of unclean skin and its abnormalprotuberances in the form of acne.

The 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides asused by the present invention are derived from the2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone as likewise used by the present invention,which is characterized by the following structure:

In accordance with the invention, use is made of2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone, 2,3-dybenzylbutyrolactone derivatives, and/ortheir glycosides in all their stereoisomeric forms, which can be presentboth as racemate and in the form of a pure enantiomorph, as well as inracemic mixtures with different enantiomorphic constituents. Inaccordance with the invention, the formulation comprises2,3-dibenzylbutyrolatone derivatives and/or their glycosides as well2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone.

In accordance with the invention, the cosmetic and/or dermatologicalpreparation of the invention is preferably present in the form of anemulsion. The preparations for the purposes of the present invention maypreferably contain besides one or more oil phases, in addition one oremore water phases, and be present, for example, in the form of W/O(water-in-oil), W/S (water-in-silicone oil), O/W (oil-in-water), S/W(silicone oil-in-water) emulsions. Furthermore, in accordance with theinvention they may advantageously be likewise present in so-calledmultiple emulsions, such as, for example, W/O/W or O/W/O emulsions.Preferably, such formulations may also be a microemulsion (for example,a PIT emulsion), a solid emulsion (i.e., an emulsion that is stabilizedby solids, for example, a Pickering emulsion), a sprayable emulsion or ahydrodispersion. Furthermore, the preparations for the purposes of theinvention can also be almost waterfree (water content less than 5% byweight based on the total weight of the preparation). Likewise, aqueoussolutions are advantageous in accordance with the invention. Accordingto the invention, the preparations are advantageously also present inthe form of lipodispersions, gels, solid sticks, or aerosols.

Preparations for the purposes of the present invention may be present,for example, in the form of a cream, a lotion, a cosmetic milk, or amousse-cream from an aerosol container.

It is also possible and advantageous for the purposes of the presentinvention to incorporate the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives ofthe invention and/or their glycosides into aqueous systems or surfactantpreparations for cleansing the skin.

In accordance with the invention, the concentration of one or more2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosidesadvantageously ranges from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to5% by weight, and very preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, each basedon the total weight of the preparation.

The 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives of the invention and/or theirglycosides can be added to the preparation of the inventionadvantageously in the form of plant extracts. Especially satisfactory inthis connection are aqueous-alcoholic extracts from plants. However,according to the invention, it is also advantageous to include in theformulation of the preparations, extracts and distillates obtained byother forms of extraction and methods, for example, extracts obtainedwith the use of carbon dioxide as extraction agent, as well as watervapor distillates.

In this connection, it is especially advantageous in accordance with theinvention to use plant extracts from Arctium lappa L. (greater burdock)and/or Steganotaenia araliacea (carrot tree).

In accordance with the invention, it is preferred to use as2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides, arctiin,arctigenin, prestegane B, tracheloside and/or trachelogenin.

Especially preferred in accordance with the invention are thederivatives of the following stereochemical structure:

Especially preferred in accordance with the invention are arctiin andprestegane B.

It is easy to incorporate the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives ofthe invention and/or their glycosides not only into customary cosmeticand/or dermatological preparations, such as light-protectivepreparations, skin care preparations, antiwrinkle preparations, but alsointo other preparations, for example, pharmaceutical preparations.

Cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations normally contain a pluralityof auxiliary agents and active ingredients, which are also possible andadvantageous to use in the preparations of the invention.

In accordance with the invention, it is possible to use customaryantioxidants in the preparations that contain 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and/or their glycosides.

Advantageously, the antioxodants are selected from the group consistingof amino acids (for example, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan)and their derivatives; imidazoles (for example, urocanic acid) and theirderivatives; peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine,and their derivatives (for example, anserine); carotenoids, carotene(for example, alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and theirderivatives; aurothioglucose, propylethiouracil and other thiols (forexample, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine, andtheir glycosyl-, N-acetyl-, methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, amyl-, butyl- andlauryl-, palmitoyl-, oleyl-, γ-linoleyl-, cholesteryl-, and glycerylesters), as well as their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate,distearylhiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives(ester, ether, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), aswell as metal chelators (for example, α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmiticacid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example, citricacid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts,bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives; unsaturatedfatty acids and their derivatives (for example, γ-linolenic acid,linoleic acid, oleic acid, folic acid and their derivatives; alaninediacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenoles, catechins, vitamin C andderivatives (for example, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg-ascorbyl phosphate,ascorbyl acetate); tocopherols and derivatives (for example, vitamin Eacetate); as well as coniferyl benzoate of the benzoic resin; rutinicacid and its derivatives; ferulic acid and its derivatives;butylhydroxytoluol; butylhydroxyanisol; nordihydroguaiaic resin acid;nordihydroguaiaretic acid; trihydroxybutyrophenone; uric acid; and itsderivatives, mannose and its derivatives; zinc and its derivatives (forexamle, ZnO, ZnSO₄); selenium and its derivatives (for example, seleniummethionine); stilbene and its derivatives (for example, stilbene oxide,trans-stilbene oxide); and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers,sugar, nucleotides, nucelosides, peptides, and lipids) of thesementioned active substances, which are suited according to theinvention.

The quantity of the antioxidants (one or more compounds) in thepreparations is preferably from 0.001 to 10% by weight, very preferably0.025 to 2.0% by weight, in particular 0.05 to 10% by weight based onthe total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivativesrepresent the antioxidant or antioxidants, it will be advantageous toselect their respective concentrations in the range from 0.001 to 10% byweight based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin E and/or its derivatives represent the antioxidant orantioxidants, it will be advantageous to select their respectiveconcentrations from the range of 0.001 to 10% by weight based on thetotal weight of the formulation.

Further advantageous active ingredients for the purposes of the presentinvention are natural ingredients and/or their derivatives, such as, forexample, alpha-lipoic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10,alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and/or syntheticisoflavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, and/or beta-alanine, whichcan be used preferably in a concentration of 0.001 to 10% by weightbased on the total weight of the preparation. It is also possible andadvantageous to add to the preparations of the invention, hop extract orhop-malt extract, and/or soybean extracts, and/or clover extracts in aconcentration of 0.001 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of thepreparation.

Formulations of the invention, which contain, for example, knownantiwrinkle agents, such as flavone glycosides (in particularalpha-glycosyl rutin), coenzyme Q 10, vitamin E and/or derivatives, andthe like, are suited in a very advantageous manner for the prophylaxisand treatment of cosmetic or dermatological skin changes, as occur, forexample, in skin aging (such as, for example, dryness, roughness, andformation of dryness wrinkles, itching, reduced refatting (for example,after washing), visible vascular dilations (teleangiectases, cuperosis),flaccidity and formation of wrinkles and lines, local hyperpigmentation,hypopigmentation, abnormal pigmentation (for example, age spots),increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (for example, cracking),and the like. Furthermore, they are advantageously suited for thetreatment and prophylaxis of the clinical appearance of dry and roughskin, as well as for the treatment and prophylaxis of the symptoms ofUV-light-induced skin aging (photoaging).

Naturally, it is known to the person of skill in the art that in mostcases, exacting cosmetic preparations are not possible without thecustomary auxiliary agents and additives. The cosmetic preparationsaccording to the invention can therefore contain cosmetic auxiliaryagents as are customarily used in such preparations, for example,emulsifiers, preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, perfumes,UV-light protection filters, skin-bleaching agents, selftanners,repellants, antifoaming agents, dyes, pigments with a coloring action,thickeners, moisturizers and/or humectants, fillers that improve dermalsensation, fats, oils, waxes, or other customary ingredients of acosmetic or dermatological formulation, such as alcohols, polyols,polymers, foam stabililzers, electrolytes, organic solvents, or siliconederivatives.

Medicated topical compositions for the purposes of the present inventionnormally contain one or more medicaments in active concentrations. Forthe sake of simplicity, the legal provisions of the Federal Republic ofGermany (for example, statutory regulation for cosmetics, food andmedicament law) are herewith incorporated by reference for purposes ofmaking a clear distinction between cosmetic and medicinal applicationand corresponding products.

Advantageously, preparations of the present invention may additionallycontain substances, which absorb UW radiation in the UVB range, wherethe total amount of the filter substances is, for example, from 0.1% to30% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, in particular 1.0% to6.0% by weight based on the total weight of the preparations for makingavailable cosmetic preparations, which protect hair and skin against theentire range of the ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used assunscreen agents for the hair.

When the preparations of the present invention contain UVB filtersubstances, same may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. In accordance withthe invention, advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters include, forexample:

derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, preferably 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;

derivatives of 4-aminobenzoic acid, preferably2-(ethylhexyl)4-dimethylamino-benzoate, amyl 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoate;

esters of cinnamic acid, preferably (2-ethylhexyl)4-methoxy cinnamate,isopentyl 4-methoxy cinnamate;

esters of salicylic acid, preferably (2-ethylhexyl) salicylicate,(4-isopropylbenzyl) salicylicate, homomenthyl salicylicate;

derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;

esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di(2-ethylhexyl)4-methoxybenzalmalonate; and

2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine.

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example:

salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium-,potassium-, or its triethanol ammonium salt, as well as the sulfonicacid itself;

sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably,2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenopenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;

sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as, forexample, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl)benzenesulfonic acid,2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)sulfonic acid and its salts, aswell as the 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidene)benzene and saltsthereof (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example, thecorresponding sodium-, potassium-, or triethanolammonium salt), alsoreferred to as benzene-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonicacid;

hydroxybenzophenone derivatives, such as, for example,2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoic acid hexyl ester, which isavailable from BASF under the trade name Uvinul® A Plus;

benzoxazol derivatives, such as, for example,2,4-bis-[5-1(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-4(phenyl)-imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)-imino-1,3,5-triazine, (CAS No.288254-16-0), which is available, for example, under the trade nameUVASorb® K2A from 3V Sigma.

Naturally, the list of the referenced UVB filters, which may be usedtogether with the combinations of active ingredients according to theinvention, is not intended to be limiting.

It can also be of advantage to use UVA filters, which are normallypresent in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferablyderivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione. Furthermore,advantageous UVA filters are from the group of the triazines, forexample2,4-bis-{[4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5triazine (trade name Tinosorb® S), as well as from the group of thetriazoles, such as, for example,2,2′-methylene-bis-[6-2H-benzotriazole-2-yl]-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)-phenol(trade name Tinosorb® M). An advantageous water-soluble UVA filter is2′-bis-(1,4-phenylene)-1H-benzimidazole-4,6-disulfonic acid sodium salt(trade name Neo Heliopan AP®).

The amounts used can be the same as the amounts for the UVB combination.

Advantageously, cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations inaccordance with the invention contain in addition inorganic pigmentsbased on metal oxides and/or other metal compounds that are difficult todissolve in water or insoluble, in particular the oxides of titanium(TiO₂), zinc (ZnO), iron (for example, Fe₂O₃), zirconium (ZrO₂), silicon(SiO₂), manganese (for example, MnO) , aluminum (Al₂O₃), cerium (forexample (Ce₂O₃), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals, as well asmixtures of such oxides. Especially preferred are pigments on the basisof TiO₂.

While not required, it will be especially advantageous for the purposesof the present invention, when the inorganic pigments are present inhydrophobic form, i.e., they are treated for water-repellency on theirsurface. This surface treatment may consist in that the pigments areprovided with a thin, hydrophobic layer by a method known per se.

One of such methods consists, for example, in producing the hydrophobicsurface layer by a reaction according ton TiO₂+m(RO₃)Si—R′→n TiO₂ (superficial),where n and m are stoichiometric parameters that are to be inserted asdesired, and R and R′ are the desired organic radicals. For example,pigments that are made hydrophobic analogously to DE-OS 33 14 742 are ofadvantage.

Advantageous TiO₂ pigments are commercially available under the tradenames MT 100T from TAYCA, furthermore M 160 from Kemira, as well as T805 from Degussa.

Preparations according to the invention can also contain anionic,nonanionic, and/or amphoteric surfactants, in particular whencrystalline or microcrystalline solids, for example, inorganicmicropigments are to be included in the preparations of the presentinvention. Surfactants are amphophilic substances, which are capable ofdissolving organic, nonpolar substances in water.

The hydrophilic moieties of a surfactant molecule are in most casespolar functional groups, for example —COO⁻, —OSO₃ ²⁻, —SO₃ ⁻, whereasthe hydrophobic parts normally represent nonpolar hydrocarbon residues.In general, surfactants are classified according to the type and chargeof the hydrophilic moiety of the molecule. In this connection, it ispossible to differentiate between four groups:

-   -   anionic surfactants;    -   cationic surfactants;    -   amphoteric surfactants; and    -   nonionic surfactants.

As functional groups, anionic surfactants normally include carboxylate-,sulfate-, and sulfonate groups. In an aqueous solution, they formnegatively charged, organic ions in the acidic or neutral environment.Cationic surfactants are characterized nearly exclusively by thepresence of a quaternary ammonium group. In an aqueous solution, theyform positively charged, organic ions in the acidic or neutralenvironment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationicgroups, and act accordingly in an aqueous solution as anionic orcationic surfactants depending on the pH value. In a strongly acidicenvironment, they possess a positive charge, and in an alkalineenvironment a negative charge. In the neutral pH range, however, theyare zwitterionic, as is demonstrated in the following example: RNH₂ ⁺₂CH₂COOHX⁻ (at pH = 2) X⁻ = any desired anion, e.g., Cl⁻ RNH₂⁺CH₂CH₂COO⁻ (at pH = 7) RNHCH₂CH₂COO⁻B⁺ (at pH = 12) B⁺ = any desiredcation, e.g., Na⁺Typical of nonionic surfactants are polyether chains. Nonionicsurfactants form no ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic Surfactants

Anionic surfactants that can be advantageously used, include: acylaminoacids (and salts thereof), such as:

1. Acylglutamate, for example, sodium acyl glutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylasparate, and sodium caprylic/capric glutamate;

2. Acylpeptides, for example, palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodiumcocoyl-hydrolyzed soybean protein, and sodium/potassiumcocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen;

3. Sarcosinates, for example, myristoyl sarcosinate, TEA-lauroylsarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate;

4. Taurates, for example, sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methylcocoyltaurate;

5. Acyl lactylates, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate; and

6. Alaninates.

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as:

1. Carboxylic acids, for example, lauric acid, aluminum stearate,magnesium alkanolate, and zinc undecylenate;

2. Ester carboxylic acids, for example, calcium stearoyl lactyllate,laureth-6 citrate, and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate; and

3. Ether carboxylic acids, for example, sodium laureth-13 carboxylate,and sodium PEG-6 cocoamide carboxylate.

Esters of phosphoric acid and salts, such as, for example,DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4 phosphates.

Sufonic acids and salts, such as:

1. Acyl isethionate, for example, sodium-ammoniumcocoyl isethionate;

2. Alkyaryl sulfonates;

3. Alkyl sulfonates, for example, sodium cocosmonoglyceride sulfate,sodium C₁₂₋₁₄olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate, and magnesiumPEG-3 cocamide sulfate;

4. Sulfosuccinates, for example, dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodiumlaureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, and disodiumundecylenamido-MEA-sulfosuccinate; as well as

Esters of sulfuric acid, such as:

1. Alkyl ether sulfonates, for example, sodium, ammonium, magnesium,MIPA, TIPA, laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate, and sodiumC₁₂₋₁₃pareth sulfate; and

2. Alkyl sulfates, for example, sodium, ammonium, and TEA-laurylsulfate.

B. Cationic Surfactants

Cationic surfactants that can be advantageously used, include:

1. Alkylamines,

2. Alkylimidazoles,

3. Ethoxylated amines,

4. Quaternary surfactants, and

5. Esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least one nitrogen atom, which iscovalently bonded with 4 alkyl- or aryl groups. Irrespective of the pHvalue, this leads to a positive charge. Advantageous are alkylbetaine,alkylamidopropylbetaine, and alkyl-amidopropylhydroxysulfaine. The cationic surfactants that are used in accordance with the invention, canalso be selected from the group of quaternary ammonium compounds, inparticular benzyltrialkyl ammoniumchlorides or bromides, such as, forexample, benzyldimethylstearyl ammonium chloride, furthermorealkyltrialkyl ammonium salts, for example, cetyltrimethyl ammoniumchloride or bromide, alkyidimethylhydroxyethyl ammonium chloride orbromide, dialkyldimethyl ammonium chloride or bromide,alkylamidethyltrimethyl ammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts,for example, lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, imidazolinederivatives and compounds having cationic character, such as amineoxides, for example, alkyldimethylamine oxide or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxide. The use of cetyltrimethyl ammonium salts isparticularly advantageous.

C. Amphoteric Surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants that can be advantageously used, include:

1. Acyl-/dialkylethyl endiamine, for example, sodium acyl amphoacetate,disodiumacyl amphodipropionate, disodium alkyl amphodiacetate, sodiumacylamphohydroxy propylsulfonate, disodium acyl amphodiacetate, andsodium acyl amphopropionate;

2. N-alkylamino acids, for example, aminopropyl-alkylglutamide,alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium-alkylimidodipropionate andlauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Nonionische Surfactants

Nonionic surfactants, which can be advantageously used, include:

1. Alcohols;

2. Alkanolamides, such as MEA/DEA/MIPA cocoamides;

3. Amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide;

4. Esters, which result from the esterification of carboxylic acids withethylene oxide, glycerin, sorbitan, or other alcohols;

5. Ethers, for example, ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols,ethoxylated/propoxylated esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated glycerolesters, ethoxylated/propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated/propoxylatedtriglyceride esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated lanolin,ethoxylated/propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE-ethers, andalkyl polyglycosides, such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside and cocoglycoside;

6. Sucrose esters, sucrose ethers;

7. Polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters; and

8. Methylglucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids.

It is also advantageous to use a combination of anionic and/oramphoteric surfactants with one or more nonionic surfactants.

In the preparations of the invention, the surface-active substance maybe present in a concentration between 1 and 30% by weight based on thetotal weight of the preparations.

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the invention can becomposed in the usual manner and be used for treating, caring for, andcleansing the skin and/or hair, and serve as makeup product indecorative cosmetics. Accordingly, depending on their composition, theycan be used, for example, as skin protection cream, cleansing milk,sunscreen lotion, nourishing cream, day cream or night cream, etc. Insome instances, it is possible and advantageous to use the preparationsof the invention as base for pharmaceutical formulations. Thepreparations of the invention contain active ingredients of theinvention, for example, in a range from 0.001 to 30% by weight,preferably, 0.01 to 10% by weight, in particular however 0.1 to 5% byweight, each based on the total weight of the preparations.

In accordance with the invention, the cosmetic and dermatologicalpreparations for protecting hair against UV radiation include, forexample, shampooing agents; preparations, which are used for rinsing thehair before or after shampooing, before or after a permanent wavetreatment, before or after coloring and decoloring the hair;preparations for blow drying or setting hair; preparations for coloringand decoloring; a hair-styling and treating lotion; a hair spray, orpermanent wave agent.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological preparations accordingto the invention may advantageouly be selected from the following groupof substances:

mineral oils, mineral waxes;

oils, such as triglycerides of capric or capryllic acids, furthermorenatural oils, such as for example, castor oil;

fats, waxes, and other natural and synthetic lipoids, preferably estersof fatty acids with alcohols having a low carbon number, e.g., withisopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcoholswith alkanoic acids of a low carbon number or with fatty acids;

alkylbenzoates; and

silicone oils, such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes,diphenylpolysiloxanes, as well as mixed forms thereof.

Advantageously, the oil phase of the preparations of the presentinvention may further be selected from the groups of the esters ofsaturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms andsaturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkohols havinga chain length from 3 to 30 carbon atoms; from the group of the estersof aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and/or unsaturated, branchedand/or unbranched alkohols having a chain length from 3 to 30 carbonatoms. Such ester oils may advantageously be selected from the group ofisopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyloleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctylstearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl hexylpalmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecylpalmitate, oleyl oleate, oley lerucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate,as well as synthetic, semisynthetic, and natural mixtures of suchesters, for example, jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase may advantageously be selected from the groupof the branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and hydrocarbon waxes, thesilicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of the saturated orunsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acidtriglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having achain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Thefatty acid triglycerides may adantageously be selected, for example,from the group of the synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, forexample, olive oil, sunflower seed oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and thelike.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be usedadvantageously for the purposes of the present invention. In someinstances, it may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example, cetylpalmitate, as the only lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil phase is selected from the group of2-ethylhexylstearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate,isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexylcocoate, C₁₂₋₁₅-alkylbenzoate, triglyceride ofthe caprylic-capric acid, dicaprylylether.

Especially advantageous are mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate and2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate andisotridecyl isononanoate, as well as mixtures of C₁₂₋₁₅ alkyl benzoate,2-ethylhexyl-isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, squalane and squalene are to be usedwith advantage for the purposes of the present invention.

Advantageously, the oil phase can also advantageously include a contentof cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely consist of such oils,although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phasecomponents apart from the silicone oil or silicone oils. Such siliconesor silicone oils may be present as monomers, which are normallycharacterized by structural elements, as follows:

Linear silicones that are to be advantageously used according to theinvention with a plurality of siloxyl units, are generally characterizedby structural elements, as follows:

where the silicon atoms with the same or different alkyl radicals and/oraryl radicals may be substituted. They are here generally shown by theradicals R₁—R₄ (which means that the number of the different radicals isnot necessarily limited to as many as 4), and m may assume values from 2to 200,000.

Cyclical silicones that are to be advantageously used in accordance withthe invention, are generally characterized by structural elements, asfollows:

where the silicon atoms with the same or different alkyl radicals and/oraryl radicals, which are in general shown by the radicals R₁—R₄, may besubstituted (which means that the number of the different radicals isnot necessarily limited to as many as 4). n may assume values from 3/2to 20. Broken values for n take into account that odd numbers of siloxylgroups may be present in the cyclic structure.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (for example,decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) is used as silicone oil in accordance withthe invention. However, other silicone oils can also be usedadvantageously in the meaning of the present invention, for example,undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane,poly(methylphenylsiloxane), cetyldimethicone, and behenoxydimethicone.

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, as well as suchof cyclomethicone and 2-ethyl hexyl isostearate are also advantageous.

However, it is also advantageous to select silicone oils of aconstitution similar to that of the above-described compounds, whoseorganic side chains are derivatized, for example, polyethoxylated and/orpolypropoxylated. These include, for example,polysiloxanepolyalkyl-polyether-copolymers, such as thecetyl-dimethicone-copolyol, cetyl-dimethiconecopolyol (and)polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate).

Especially advantageous are also mixtures of cyclomethicone andisotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethyl hexylisostearate.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase of the preparations according to theinvention include in some instances low-carbon alkohols, diols orpolyols, as well as ethers thereof, preferably ethanol, isopropanol,propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethylor monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl, or monobutylether, diethylene glycolmonomethyl or monoethyl ether und analogousproducts, furthermore alcohols of a low carbon number, for example,ethanol isopropanol, 1,2-propane-diol, glycerol as well as inparticular, one or more thickeners, which can advantageously be selectedfrom the group of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.

Preparations of the present invention advantageously contain inparticular one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids mayadvantageously be selected from the group of the gums, polysaccharides,cellulose derivatives, layer silicates, polyacrylates and/or otherpolymers.

Preparations of the invention that are present as hydrogels, contain oneor more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously beselected from the aforesaid group.

Gums include plant or tree saps, which cure in the air and form resins,or extracts from water plants. From this group, it is advantageous toselect, for the purposes of-the present invention, for example, gumarabicum, carob meal, tragacanth, Karaya, guar gum, pectin, gellan gum,carrageen, agar, algin, chondrus, xanthan gum.

Furthermore, it is advantageous to use derived gums, such as, forexample, hydroxypropyl guar (Jaguar® HP 8).

Polysaccharides and derivatives thereof include, for example, hyaluronicacid, chitin, and chitosan, chondroitin sulfate, starch, and starchderivatives.

Cellulose derivatives include, for example, methylcellulose,carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, and hydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

Layer silicates include naturally occurring and synthetic clays, suchas, for example, montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite,magnesium-aluminum silicates, such as Veegum®. They may be used as suchor in modified form, such as, for example, stearyl alkonium hectorite.

Furthermore, it is also advantageous to use silicic-acid gels.

Polyacrylates include, for example, Carbopol™ types from Goodrich(Carbopol™ 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001, EDT 2020, EDT 2050,Ultrez 10, or Pemulen TR1 & TR2).

Polymers include, for example, polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinylalcohols, PVP, PVP/VA copolymers, and polyglycols.

Preparations according to the invention, which are present as emulsions,include one more emulsifiers. Advantageously, these emulsifiers can beselected from the group of the nonionic, anionic, cationic, oramphoteric emulsifiers.

Nonionic emuslifiers include:

a) partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyvalentalcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (for example, glycerylmonostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrosestearates);

b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids;

c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty alkanolamides;

d) alkylphenolpolyglycolether (for example, Triton X); and

e) sugar derivatives (ester and/or ether of glucose, saccharose, andother sugars; for example, alkyl polyglycosides, such aspolyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, and methylglucosesequistearate).

Anionic emulsifiers include:

a) soaps (for example, sodium stearate);

b) fatty alcohol sulfates;

c) mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphoric acid esters and their ethoxylates.

Cationic emulsifiers include:

a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic residue,for example, distearyl diammonium chlorides.

Among the amphoteric emsulsifiers are:

a) alkyl aminino alkane carboxylic acids;

b) betaines, sulfobetaines;

c) imidazolin derivatives.

Furthermore, there are naturally occurring emulsifiers, which includebeeswax, wool wax, lecithin, and sterols.

O/W emulsifiers can advantageously be selected, for example, from thegroup of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated andpolypropoxylated products, for example:

-   fatty alcohol ethoxylates;-   ethoxylated wool wax alcohols;-   polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula    R—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O)_(n)—R′;-   fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula    R—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—H;-   etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula    R—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—R′;-   esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula    R—COO—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—C(O)—R′;-   fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycolglycerin;-   ethoxylated sorbitanester;-   cholesterol ethoxylates;-   ethoxylated triglycerides;-   alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula    R—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)—CH₂—COOH nd, where n is a number from 5 to 30;-   fatty acid ester of polyoxyethylene sorbitol;-   alkylether sulfates of the general formula    R—O—(—CH₂—CH₂—O—)_(n)—SO₃—H;-   fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula    R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—H;-   polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula    R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—R′;-   propoxylated wool wax alcohols;-   etherified fatty acid propoxylates R—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—R′;-   esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula    R—COO—(—CH2—CH(CH3)—O—)_(n)C(O)—R′;-   fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula    R—COO—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—H;-   fatty acid esters of polypropylene glycolglycerin;-   propoxylated sorbitan esters;-   cholesterol propoxylates;-   propoxylated triglycerides;-   alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula    R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—CH₂—COOH;-   alkylether sulfates or the parent acids of these sulfates of the    general formula R—O—(—CH₂—CH(CH₃)—O—)_(n)—SO₃—H;-   fatty alcohol ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formula    R—O—X_(n)—Y_(m)—H;-   polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula    R—O—X_(n)—Y_(m)—R′;-   etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula    R—COO—X_(n)—Y_(m)—R′;-   fatty acid ethoxylates/propoxylates of the general formula    R—COO—X_(n)—Y_(m)—H.

In accordance with the invention, it is especially advantageous toselect the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated andpolypropoxylated O/W emulsifiers from the group of the substances withHLB values from 11 to 18, very advantageously with HLB values from 14.5to 15.5, provided the O/W emulsifiers have saturated radicals R and R′.If the O/W emulsifiers include unsaturated radicals R and/or R′, or ifisoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value of suchemulsifiers can also be lower or higher.

It is advantageous to select the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from thegroup of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetyl stearylalcohols (cetearyl alcohols). Especially preferred are:

-   Polyethylene glycol(13)stearyl ether (steareth-13),-   polyethylene glycol(14)stearyl ether (steareth-14),-   polyethylene glycol(15)stearyl ether (steareth-15),-   polyethylene glycol(16)stearyl ether (steareth-16),-   polyethylene glycol(17)stearyl ether (steareth-17),-   polyethylene glycol(18)stearyl ether (steareth-18),-   polyethylene glycol(19)stearyl ether (steareth-19),-   polyethylene glycol(20)stearyl ether (steareth-20);-   Polyethylene glycol(12)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12),-   polyethylene glycol(13)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13),-   polyethylene glycol(14)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14),-   polyethylene glycol(15)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15),-   polyethylene glycol(16)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-16);-   polyethylene glycol(17)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17),-   polyethylene glycol(18)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18),-   polyethylene glycol(19)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19),-   polyethylene glycol(20)isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20);-   Polyethylene glycol(13)cetyl ether (ceteth-13),-   polyethylene glycol(14)cetyl ether (ceteth-14),-   polyethylene glycol(15)cetyl ether (ceteth-15),-   polyethylene glycol(16)cetyl ether (ceteth-16),-   polyethylene glycol(17)cetyl ether (ceteth-17),-   polyethylene glycol(18)cetyl ether (ceteth-18),-   polyethylene glycol(19)cetyl ether (ceteth-19),-   polyethylene glycol(20)cetyl ether (ceteth-20);-   Polyethylene glycol(13)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13),-   polyethylene glycol(14)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14),-   polyethylene glycol(15)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15),-   polyethylene glycol(16)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16),-   polyethylene glycol(17)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-17),-   polyethylene glycol(18)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18),-   polyethylene glycol(19)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-l9),-   polyethylene glycol(20)isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20);-   Polyethylene glycol(12)oleyl ether (oleth-12),-   polyethylene glycol(13)oleyl ether (oleth-13),-   polyethylene glycol(14)oleyl ether (oleth-14),-   polyethylene glycol(15)oleyl ether (oleth-15);-   Polyethylene glycol(12)lauryl ether (laureth-12),-   polyethylene glycol(12)isolauryl ether (isolaureth-12);-   Polyethylene glycol(13)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-13),-   polyethylene glycol(14)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-14),-   polyethylene glycol(15)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-15),-   polyethylene glycol(16)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-16),-   polyethylene glycol(17)cetylsteary lether (ceteareth-17),-   polyethylene glycol(18)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-18),-   polyethylene glycol(19)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-19),-   polyethylene glycol(20)cetylstearyl ether (ceteareth-20).

It is also advantageous to select the fatty acid ethoxylates from thefollowing group:

-   polyethylene glycol(20) stearate,-   polyethylene glycol(21) stearate,-   polyethylene glycol(22) stearate,-   polyethylene glycol(23) stearate,-   polyethylene glycol(24) stearate,-   polyethylene glycol(25) stearate;-   Polyethylene glycol(12) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(13) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(14) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(15) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(16) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(17) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(18) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(19) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(20) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(21) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(22) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(23) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(24) isostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(25) isostearate;-   Polyethylene glycol(12) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(13) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(14) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(15) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(16) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(17) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(18) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(19) oleate,-   polyethylene glycol(20) oleate.

Sodiumlaureth-11-carboxylate may advantageously be used as ethoxylatedalkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salts.

Sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate may advantageously be used as an alkyl ethersulfate.

Polyethylene glycol(30)cholesteryl ether may be advantageously used asethoxylated cholesterol derivative. Polyethylene glycol(25)soyasterolhas also proven successful.

Polyethylene glycol(60) evening primrose glycerides may advantageouslybe used as ethoxylated triglycerides.

It is also advantageous to select the fatty acid esters of polyethyleneglycol glycerol from the group of polyethylene glycol(20)glyceryllaurate, polyethylene glycol(21)glyceryl laurate, polyethyleneglycol(22)glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol(23)glyceryl laurate,polyethylene glycol(6)glyceryl caprate/caprinate, polyethyleneglycol(20)glyceryl oleate, polyethylene glycol(20)glyceryl isostearate,polyethylene glycol(18)glyceryl oleate/cocoate.

It is likewise advantageous to select the sorbitan esters from the groupof:

-   polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monolaurate,-   polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monoisostearate,-   polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monopalmitate,-   polyethylene glycol(20)sorbitan monooleate.

It is possible to use as advantageous W/O emulsifiers: fatty alcoholshaving 8 to 30 carbon atoms, monoglycerol esters of saturated and/orunsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having achain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms,diglycerol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/orunbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain length from 8 to 24,in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, monoglycerol ethers of saturatedand/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranched alcohols having a chainlength from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, diglycerolethers of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalcohols having a chain length from 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and/or unsaturated,branched and/or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids having a chain lengthfrom 8 to 24, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms, as well as sorbitanesters of saturated and/or unsaturated, branched and/or unbranchedalkane carboxylic acids having a chain length from 8 to 24, inparticular 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Particularly advantageous W/O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate,glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monooleate,diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, propylene glycolmonostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycolmonocaprylate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate,sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate,sucrose distearate, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol,behenyl alcohol, isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol,polyethylene glycol(2)stearyl ether (steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate,glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Especially preferred embodiments of the preparations according to theinvention are characterized in that they contain one or morecyclodextrins and/or cyclodextrin derivatives. Cyclodextrins and/orcyclodextrin derivatives represent in accordance with the inventionnative cyclodextrins, alpha-, beta-, and gamma cyclodextrin, as well asthe derivatives of these species, in particular all alpha-, beta-,gamma-cyclodextrins, which are fully or partially etherified at thehydroxyl groups, and/or esterified, and/or otherwise derivatized, suchas alpha-cyclodextrin, beta-cyclodextrin,hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin, hydroxypropyl-gamma-cyclodextrin,partially methylated (random methyl-) beta-cyclodextrin, and/or gammacyclodextrin.

The improvement of the solubility of sparingly soluble substances in thepresence of cyclodextrins in an aqueous medium is described forindividual substances. Of advantage may be both the inclusion compoundsof a substance, also named guest, with a cyclodextrin species, whereinboth 1:1 or 1:2 complexes as well as complexes with additional molarratios (guest: cyclodextrin) are possible, and their physical mixture.

Cyclodextrins and their derivatives are able to form inclusion complexesbecause of their structure. They are suitable for a “molecularencapsulation” of active ingredients (for example, as protectivecovering of sensitive molecules in cosmetic and pharmaceuticalformulations).

The cyclodextrins, or cyclodextrin-guest-inclusion complexes, or thecyclodextrin-substance mixtures can be easily incorporated into commoncosmetic or dermatological formulations.

In accordance with the invention the cyclodextrin or cyclodextrinsand/or their derivatives are advantageously used in a concentration of0.0005% to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.01% to 10%by weight, and very preferably in a concentration of 0.1% to 5% byweight based on the total weight of the preparation.

In accordance with the invention, the especially preferred cyclodextrinsare gamma-cyclodextrin as well as hydroxypropyl-beta-cyclodextrin.

Likewise other forms of encapsulation of the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and -glycosides can be advantageously used for the purposesof the invention. Especially advantageous are, for example, the methodsof encapsulating lipid particles as are disclosed in DE 199 45 203 A1,WO 94/20072, or WO 00/67728.

The invention is by no means limited to the referenced cosmetic ordermatological active ingredients, auxiliary agents, and additives.

In accordance with the invention, one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and/or their glycosides are used for producing apharmaceutical preparation for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skinaging symptoms.

In accordance with the invention, one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and/or their glycosides are furthermore used for producing apharmaceutical preparation for the treatment and/or prophylaxis ofinflammatory skin conditions.

Last but not least, it is in accordance with the invention to use one ormore 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides forproducing a pharmaceutical preparation for the treatment and/orprophylaxis of unclean skin and acne.

In accordance with the invention, one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and/or their glycosides are also used for producing acosmetic for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of skin aging symptoms.

In accordance with the invention, one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and/or their glycosides are furthermore used for producing acosmetic for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of inflammatory skinconditions.

Last but not least, it is in accordance with the invention to use one ormore 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides forproducing a cosmetic for the treatment and/or prophylaxis of uncleanskin and acne.

The prophylaxis and the cosmetic or dermatological treatmentrespectively with the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or theirglycosides as used in accordance with the invention, or with thecosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an active contentof the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides asused in accordance with the invention, occurs in a customary manner suchthat one applies to the affected skin parts the2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides as used inaccordance with the invention, or the cosmetic or topical dermatologicalpreparations with an active content of the 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and/or their glycosides as used in accordance with theinvention.

Besides health and care of the skin, a further branch of cosmetics alsoincludes hair care. Surprisingly, the preparations of the invention aresuited for the treatment and care of the skin appendages, i.e., nails,sweat glands, sebaceous glands, hair follicles, and in particular hair.In accordance with the invention, the treatment and care of oily hairand/or dandruff are especially advantageous, since these appearancesexhibit a certain relationship with unclean skin (increased sebumproduction), or with dry inflammatory skin. In this connection, thepreparations can be advantageously used in the form of shampoos,conditioners, rinses, and cures. With that, the invention also providesfor using one or more 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or theirglycosides for the production of a pharmaceutical and/or cosmetic forthe treatment and care of the skin appendages.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention,without limiting it. Unless otherwise specified, all specifiedquantities, constituents, and percentages are based on the weight, totalquantity, or total weight of the preparations.

EXAMPLES

1. O/W Cream Examples 1 2 3 4 5 Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00 2.00Glyceryl stearate, 4.00 3.00 self-emulsifying PEG-40-stearate 1.00Polyglyceryl-3- 3.00 methylglucose-distearate Sorbitan stearate 2.00Stearic acid 1.00 Polyoxyethylene (20)- cetylstearyl ether Stearylalcohol 5.00 Cetyl alcohol 3.00 2.00 3.00 Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00C12-15 alkylbenzoate Caprylic-/capric 5.00 3.00 4.00 3.00 3.00triglyceride Octyldodecanol 2.00 2.00 Dicaprylyl ether 4.00 2.00 1.00Paraffinum liquidum 5.00 2.00 3.00 Titanium dioxide 1.004-Methylbenzylidene 1.00 camphor 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3- 0.50(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3- propane-dione 2,3-dibenzyl- 0.20 0.50 0.10 1.000.30 butyrolactone derivatives and/or their glycosides Tocopherol 0.1 0.20 Biotin 0.05 Ethylene 0.1  0.10 0.1  diaminetetraacidic acidtrisodium Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Xanthan gum Polyacrylicacid 3.00 0.1  0.1  0.1  Sodium hydroxide 45% q.s q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.Glycerol 5.00 3.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 Butylene glycol 3.00 Perfume q.s q.s.q.s. q.s. q.s. Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

2. O/W Cream Examples 6 7 8 9 10 Glyceryl stearate citrate 2.00 2.00Glyceryl stearate, 5.00 self-emulsifying Stearic acid 2.50 3.50 Stearylalcohol 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 3.00 4.50 Cetylstearyl alcohol 3.00 1.00 0.50C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00 3.00 Caprylic-/capric 2.00 triglycerideOctyldodecanol 2.00 2.00 4.00 6.00 Dicaprylylether Paraffinum liquidum4.00 2.00 Cyclic dimethyl 0.50 2.00 polysiloxane Dimethicone 2.00polydimethylsiloxane Titanium dioxide 2.00 4-methylbenzylidene 1.00 1.00camphor 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3- 0.50 0.50 (4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propane-dione 2,3-dibenzyl- 0.20 0.70 0.25 1.00 0.40 butyrolactonederivatives and/or their glycosides Tocopherol 0.05 Ethylene 0.20 0.20diaminetetraacetic acid trisodium Preservative q.s q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.Xanthan gum 0.20 Polyacrylic acid 0.15 0.1  0.05 0.05 Sodium hydroxide45% q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Glycerol 3.00 3.00 5.00 3.00 Butyleneglycol 3.00 Ethanol 3.00 3.00 Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Water ad100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

3. W/O-Emulsions Examples 1 2 3 4 5 Cetyldimethicone copolyol 2.50 4.00Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy stearate 5.00 4.50 PEG-30-dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00 2-ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 8.00 5.00 4.002,4-bis-(4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy-)2-hydroxyl)- 2.00 2.50 2.00 2.50phenyl)-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-(1,3,5)-triazine1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)- 2.00 1.00 1,3-propane dioneDiethylhexyl butamidotriazone 3.00 1.00 3.00 Ethylhexyl triazone 3.004.00 4-methylbenzylidene camphor 2.00 4.00 2.00 Octocrylene 7.00 2.504.00 2.50 Diethylhexyl butamidotriazone 1.00 2.00Phenylene-1,4-bis-(monosodium, 2- 1.00 2.00 0.50benzimidazyl-5,7-disulfonic acid) Phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid 0.503.00 2.00 Titanium dioxide 2.00 1.50 3.00 Zinc oxide 3.00 1.00 2.00 0.50Paraffinum liquidum 10.0 8.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate 9.00 Dicaprylylether 10.00 7.00 Butyleneglycol-dicaprylate/-dicaprate 2.00 8.00 4.00Dicaprylyl carbonate 5.00 6.00 Dimethicone polydimethylsiloxane 4.001.00 5.00 Phenylmethyl polysiloxane 2.00 25.00 2.00 Shea butter 3.00 PVPhexadecane copolymer 0.50 0.50 1.00 Octoxyglycerin 0.30 1.00 0.50Glycerol 3.00 7.50 7.50 2.50 Glycine soya 1.00 1.50 Magnesium sulfate1.00 0.50 0.50 Magnesium chloride 1.00 0.70 Tocopherol acetate 0.50 0.251.00 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or 0.10 0.60 1.00 1.000.8 their glycosides Preservative q.s q.s. q.s q.s. q.s. Ethanol 3.001.50 1.00 Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. Water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad100 ad 100

4. W/O Emulsions Examples 6 7 Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy stearate 4.005.00 PEG-30-dipolyhydroxy stearate Lanolin alcohol 0.50 1.50Isohexadecane 1.00 2.00 Myristyl myristate 0.50 1.50 Vaseline 1.00 2.001-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)- 0.50 1.50 1,3-propane-dione4-Methylbenzylidene camphor 300 Butylene glycol dicaprylate/-dicaprate4.00 5.00 Shea butter 0.50 Butylene glycol 6.00 Octoxyglycerin 3.00Glycerol 5.00 Tocopherol acetate 0.50 1.00 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives and/or 0.20 0.45 their glycosides Ethylene diamintetraaceticacid 0.20 0.20 Preservative q.s. q.s. Ethanol 3.00 Perfume q.s. q.s.Water ad. 100 ad. 100

5. Hydrodispersions Examples 1 2 3 4 5 Polyoxyethylene(20)cetylstearylether 1.00 0.5 Cetylalcohol 1.00 Sodium polyacrylate 0.20 0.30Acrylate/C10-30-alkyl-acrylate 0.50 0.40 0.10 0.10 crosspolymer Xanthangum 0.30 0.15 0.50 2-Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 5.00 8.002,4-bis-(4-(2-ethyl-hexyloxy-)2-hydroxyl)- 1.50 2.00 2.50phenyl)-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-(1,3,5)- triazine1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4- 1.00 2.00 methoxyphenyl)-1,3-propane-dioneDiethylhexyl butamidotriazone 2.00 2.00 1.00 Ethylhexyl triazone 4.003.00 4.00 4-methylbenzylidene camphor 2.00 Octocrylene 4.00 4.00 2.50Phenylene-1,4-bis-(monosodium, 2- 1.00 0.50 2.00benzimidazyl-5,7-disulfonic acid Phenylbenzimidazol sulfonic acid 0.503.00 Titanium dioxide 0.50 2.00 3.00 1.00 Zinc oxide 0.50 1.00 3.00 2.00C12-15 alkyl benzoate 2.00 2.50 Dicaprylyl ether 4.00 Butylene glycoldicaprylate/-dicaprate 4.00 2.00 6.00 Dicaprylyl carbonate 2.00 6.00Dimethicone polydimethyl siloxane 0.50 1.00 Phenyimethyl polysiloxane2.00 0.50 2.00 Shea butter 2.00 PVP hexadecane copolymer 0.50 0.50 1.00Octoxyglycerin 1.00 0.50 Glycerol 3.00 7.50 7.50 2.50 Glycine soya 1.50Tocopherol acetate 0.50 0.25 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives 0.150.60 1.00 1.00 0.80 and/or their glycosides Preservative q.s. q.s. q.s.q.s., q.s. Ethanol 3.00 2.00 1.50 1.00 Perfume q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.Water ad. 100 ad. 100 ad. 100 ad. 100 ad. 100

6. Gel Cream Acrylate/C10-30 alkylacrylate crosspolymer 0.40 Polyacrylicacid 0.20 Xanthan gum 0.10 Cetearyl alcohol 3.00 C12-15 alkyl benzoate4.00 Caprylic/capric triglyceride 3.00 Cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane 5.00Dimeticone polydimethyl siloxane 1.00 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives 0.05 and/or their glycosides Glycerol 3.00 Sodium hydroxideq.s. Preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water ad 100 pH-value adjusted to6.0

7. W/O Cream Polyglyceryl-diisostearate  3.50 Glycerol  3.00Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxy stearate  3.50 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives  0.60 and/or their glycosides Preservative q.s. Perfume q.s.Water ad 100 Magnesium sulfate 0.6 Isopropyl stearate 2.0 Caprylyl ether8.0 Cetearyl isononanoate 6.0

8. W/O/W Cream Glyceryl stearate 3.00 PEG-100 stearate 0.75 Behenylalcohol 2.00 Caprylic-/capric-trigiyceride 8.0  Octyldodecanol 5.00C12-15 alkyl benzoate 3.00 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives 0.50and/or their glycosides Magnesium sulfate (MgSO₄) 0.80 Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid 0.10 Preservative q.s. Perfume q.s. Water ad 100pH-value adjusted to 6.0

9. Shower Bath Sodium laureth sulfate 33.00  Potassium-cocoyl hydrolyzedcollagen (30%) 11.00  Cocoamphodiacetate (30%) 5.00 PEG-7 gycerylcocoate 2.00 Cocamide MEA 1.00 Sodium chloride 0.502,3-dibenzyibutyrolactone derivatives and/or 0.05 their glycosidesCitric acid 0.02 Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s. Water ad 100

10. Hair Cure Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.50 Cetrimonium bromide1.00 Glycerol 3.00 Cetearyl alcohol 2.50 Benzophenone-4 0.4  Glycerylstearate 2.00 2,3-dibenzyibutyrolactone derivatives and/or 0.1  theirglycosides Preservative, perfume, pH adjustment q.s. Water ad 100 ThepH-value is adjusted to 3.5.

11. Hair Rinse Behentrimonium chloride 1.00 Glycerin 3.00 Benzophenone-40.25 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.20 Cetearyl alcohol 3.002,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives and/or 0.2  their glycosides Folicacid 0.80 Preservative, perfume, pH-adjustment q.s. Water ad 100 ThepH-value is adjusted to 6.

12 Conditioner Shampoo with Pearly Luster Examples 1 2 3Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium laureth sulfate 9.0 9.0 9.0Benzophenone-3 0.5 Benzophenone-4 0.4 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.5 2.52.5 Pearlescent agent 2.0 2.0 2.0 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives 0.06  0.15  0.01 and/or their glycosides Disodium EDTA 0.1 0.2  0.15Preservative, perfume, thickener, pH- q.s. q.s. q.s. adjustment, andsolubilizer Water, VES (fully desalted) ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ThepH-value is adjusted to 6.

13. Clear Conditioner Shampoo Examples 1 2 3 Polyquaternium-10 0.5 0.50.5 Benzophenone-4 0.4 2-Ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate 0.2 Sodium laurethsulfate 9.0 9.0 9.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.5 2.5 2.52,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives  0.02  0.05  0.05 and/or theirglycosides Iminodisuccinic acid, sodium salt 0.2 0.3 0.8 Preservative,perfume, thickener, pH- q.s. q.s. q.s. adjustment, and solubilizerWater, VES (fully desalted) ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 The pH-value isadjusted to 6.

14. Clear Light Shampoo with Volume Effect Examples 1 2 3 Sodium laurethsulfate 10.0 10.0 10.0 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 2.5 2.5 2.52,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives 0.5 0.6 0.3 and/or theirglycosides Disodium EDTA 0.2 0.15 0.7 Preservative, perfume, thickener,pH- q.s. q.s, q.s. adjustment, solubilizer Water, VES (fully desalted)ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 The pH-value is adjusted to 5.5..

1. A cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising at least onecompound selected from the group consisting of2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone, 2,3-dibenzylbutvrolactone derivatives,glycosides of 2.3-dibenzylbutyrolactone, and glycosides of2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactone derivatives.
 2. The cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the preparation is present inthe form of an emulsion.
 3. The cosmetic or dermatological preparationas claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one compound is present in aconcentration of 0.001% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight ofthe preparation.
 4. The cosmetic or dermatological preparation asclaimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one compound includes at leastone plant extract.
 5. The cosmetic or dermatological preparation asclaimed in claim 4, wherein the at least one plant extract includes atleast one extract selected from the group consisting of Arctium lappa L.(greater burdock) extracts, Steganotaenia araliacea (carrot tree)extracts, and mixtures thereof.
 6. The cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparation as claimed in claim 1, wherein the at least one compoundincludes at least one compound selected from the group consisting ofarctiin, arctigenin, prestegane B, matairesinol, tracheloside, andtrachelogenin.
 7. A method for treating or caring for the skin or haircomprising applying to the skin or hair a cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparation comprising at least one compound selected from the groupconsisting of 2,3-dibenzylbutvrolactone, 2,3-dibenzylbutyrolactonederivatives, glycosides of 2,3-dibenzylbutvrolactone, and glycosides of2,3-dibenzylbutvrolactone derivatives.
 8. The method as claimed in claim7, wherein the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is applied to theskin for the treatment or prophylaxis of inflammatory skin conditions.9. The method as claimed in claim 7, wherein the cosmetic ordermatolorical preparation is applied to the skin for the treatment orprophylaxis of unclean skin and acne.
 10. The method as claimed in claim7, wherein the cosmetic or dermatological preparation is applied to theskin or hair for the treatment and care of hair and skin appendages. 11.The method as claimed in claim 7, wherein the cosmetic or dermatologicalpreparation is applied to the skin for the treatment or prophylaxis ofskin aging symptoms.
 12. The method as claimed in claim 7, wherein theat least one compound includes at least one compound selected from thegroup consisting of arctiin, arctigenin, prestegane B, matairesinol,tracheloside,-and trachelogenin.
 13. The method as claimed in claim 7,wherein the at least one compound includes at least one plant extractselected from the group consisting of Arctium lappa L. (greater burdock)extracts, Steganotaenia araliacea (carrot tree) extracts, and mixturesthereof.
 14. The cosmetic or dermatological preparation of claim 1,further comprising at least one compound selected from the groupconsisting of cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients, auxiliaryagents, and additives.
 15. The cosmetic or dermatological preparation ofclaim 3, wherein the at least one compound is present in a concentrationof 0.05% to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.16. The cosmetic or dermatological preparation of claim 15, wherein theat least one compound is present in a concentration of 0.01% to 2% byweight based on the total weight of the preparation.